9-hour trek into Sarawak’s forgotten mercury mining past

Thanks to an invite from the Sarawak Heritage Society, BorneoTalk has the pleasure of participating in a guided visit to the historic Tegora Mercury Mine in Kampung Puak in Bau, which offered us a rare opportunity to explore the remains of a mining site that once connected Sarawak to the global mercury industry.

Before beginning the trek, we gathered for breakfast at the baruk, fuelling up and preparing ourselves for the challenging journey ahead. After breakfast, we made our way to the trailhead and began our trek into the forest. 

The Tegora Mercury Mine was established by the Borneo Company in 1867 following the discovery of cinnabar, a striking red mineral from which mercury could be extracted. The mercury was transported by boat and carriage to Jambusan before continuing by tramway to Buso, where it was shipped overseas.

As we made our way deeper into the forest, traces of Tegora’s mining past began to emerge along the trail. The journey was almost like walking through an open-air museum, with remnants of the old mining operation scattered throughout the landscape.

Among the things we discovered were an old smelting furnace, weighing equipment, chimney and various mining tools and machinery that offered a glimpse into how the site once operated. We also came across the remains of areas believed to have been used as workers’ living quarters, providing another perspective on what life may have been like for those who worked at the mine.

One of the highlights of the trek was reaching the mine cave, hidden deep within the forest. Seeing the site up close made the history feel much more tangible, a reminder that these stories are not confined to old photographs or historical records, but remain embedded within Sarawak’s landscape.

The forest itself also offered some unexpected discoveries. Along the trail, we spotted numerous pitcher plants growing among the greenery, adding another interesting element to an already memorable journey.

The Tegora mine also holds a darker chapter in Sarawak’s history. Although mining activities had ceased by the 20th century, the site was reactivated during the Japanese occupation in World War II. Cinnabar was processed to produce mercury, which was used in the manufacture of mercury fulminate, an explosive compound required for ammunition and other wartime purposes.

Reaching Tegora was certainly no easy feat. The 9-hour journey was physically demanding, but every chimney, piece of machinery, old structure and glimpse into the mine’s past made the long journey worthwhile.

After almost nine hours on the trail, we finally made our way back, tired but satisfied after a day of exploring Tegora’s hidden history. We then gathered for another meal with the team, giving everyone a chance to rest, refuel and share stories from the trek.

More than just a hike, the visit offered a deeper appreciation of the heritage hidden within Sarawak’s forests. The remnants scattered across Tegora tell stories of mining, workers, transportation, industry and wartime, connecting this remote corner of Bau to a much larger chapter of global history.

The programme was organised by the Sarawak Heritage Society, which is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, as part of its continued efforts towards heritage awareness, conservation and advocacy.

For BorneoTalk, the journey to Tegora was a memorable experience of walking through history, quite literally. After nine hours on the trail, we came away not only tired, but with a newfound appreciation for the stories that remain hidden in the forests of Sarawak.